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T-1...

Sama biir dafay metti.

I've rarely drank milk since arriving in Dakar -- a little bit here and there in coffee or tea, otherwise it's powdered milk or nothing. Milk is difficult to keep and expensive. So why did I drink milk today, you may ask? Well, Brighton and I succumbed to our craving for cereal and milk today at the toubab supermarket, caving into some muesli au chocolat and a carton of creamy milk.

With a bounce in our steps we returned to WARC to indulge in our granola-like cereal and heavy milk.

And now I have a stomachache.

I did not expect to have a negative reaction when readjusting to the food I typically eat at home, but apparently the milk is not settling well in my gut. That's what I get for being impatient and indulging in a toubab pleasure before I actually leave Dakar.

Anywho, Andre, the amusing director of the Wells College Dakar program, accompanied me to Goree Island yesterday. It's one of the top sites to visit in West Africa and particularly in Senegal, as it was one of the 3 main sites for the transatlantic slave trade for 4 centuries. National Geographic's sole picture of Senegal is of the Maison des Esclaves, located on Goree. I'll upload pictures to my photo gallery when I get the chance. Here's a couple:

And one from my short trip to Saint Louis this past weekend, taken at a random spectacle at a school we passed by. These dudes ran around simultaneously frightening the children into tears and encouraging them to cheer and clap and dance. Oh, Africa.

I leave for the airport tomorrow night around midnight. On my plate today: finish Lit paper, bake cookies, take pictures of host family, and pack. T-1..!!

May 15, 2008 | 9:05 AM Comments  0 comments

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The Sunday we visited Paradise

This past Sunday Hannah, Brighton, and I ventured to l'Île de la Madeleine, a small archipelago off the coast of Dakar and one of the most beautiful places I have ever had the pleasure to visit. iExplore describes it as a, "protected marine park of approximately 480 hectares (1200 acres). The rocky nature of the archipelago, thought to be of volcanic origins, has favored the establishment of numerous colonies of sea birds." We arrived on the island just after noon, took a short tour with a guide (it's very small, so not much to see) then spent 3 hours lounging around a lagoon and climbing over the stunning rock formations. Words and pictures cannot really do justice to how gorgeous this place in all its roughness and purity, but I'm giving it a try.

View from an incomplete rock structure. That's a picturesque baobab tree in the middle ground, and the coast of Dakar in the far background. The guide informed us that a genie protects the island and does not permit men to inhabit it, so this structure by a missionary was never finished because the genie kicked him off the island. Right on, genie.

Red-billed Tropicbirds, Phaethon aethereus: These birds breed here and are a large reason this island is protected and attracts bird-watchers. The guide took us directly to where this mother was hatching her eggs.


The lagoon which we spent several hours admiring and 30 minutes to finally get all the way under, due to it being much colder than we expected.


The clearest water I have ever seen in my entire life.


Climbing over rocks. Stunningly beautiful in its starkness and rough edges, and also a bit painful for the bare feet.


The awe-inspiring work of nature.

May 6, 2008 | 6:05 AM Comments  0 comments

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2 Weeks

In 2 weeks I will leave Dakar.

Everyone says they are surprised at how quickly their study abroad semester passes. I’m not. I wasn’t prepared for much, but the pace did not surprise me. The first month went unbelievably slow, the middle period was normal, and the last month has been a blur. All in all, life here is life, just like it is when I’m at school, or it’s the summer, or I’m home in Florida…Life passes, we breathe, people die, babies are born, we move, and life goes on. “Le monde bouge, le monde change,” says Camara Lye in L’Enfant noir. The world moves, the world changes. We move and change along with it. Another change has come and gone in my life. Now I’m moving onto several new changes. C’est la vie.

In 2 Weeks, These are the Top 10 Things I Will Miss:
10. Haggling the price on items – although this is sometimes quite stressful, it can be fun as hell.
9. Weekend adventures to nearby exotic locations…
8. Getting teased relentlessly by my host brothers.
7. Mbalax = Senegalese dance and music.
6. Impressing Senegalese people when I can hold a conversation in Wolof.
5. Bissap and bouye (hibiscus petal and baobab fruit) juice available nearly everywhere here in Dakar.
4. The awe-inspiring limbs of Baobab trees that crawl from the ground right into the sky.
3. Daba, my host cousin = the beautiful and clever little sister I never had.
2. Eating meals with my host family, gathered around a large tray on the floor of the TV room -- particularly theiboujën (rice with fish and either tomato-based sauced or bissap-based sauce), mafé (peanut and tomato sauce over rice), and theiboukétcha (rich with dried fish).
1. Learning something entirely new and foreign every single day, and always being reminded to take life “danke danke” or “doucement” -- slowly.

In 2 Weeks, These are the Top 10 Things I Will NOT Miss:
10. The dilapidated state of cats and dogs that roam the streets of Dakar.
9. Staring at professors in a stupor because they're speaking French at a level I only dream of reaching one day.
8. Feeling guilty for wanting the Senegalese price for items.
7. White bread all day, everyday.
6. Being told point blank that I don’t speak Wolof or French well enough, even though I speak well considering I’ve only lived here for a few months.
5. Taxis honking at me at least several times each day.
4. Getting accused of being racist because I do want to purchase items from vendors or dance with creepy old men in clubs or bars.
3. Men requesting that I take them back to the U.S. with me, "because there isn't enough money in Senegal to go around."
2. Turning away young children in ratty clothing who ask me for my change, because I cannot bear to support the perverted system of Talibes.
1. POLLUTION. The soul-crushing, lung-collapsing, headache-causing air and land pollution that plagues Dakar, namely the disgusting black fumes that come from Ndaiga Ndiayes (small buses run by the Mourides) and the trash that lines nearly every street in this city.

Before I leave I still need to finish 2 papers, visit Isle de Gorée and hopefully Isle de Madeleine as well, get pictures printed as a gift for my family, and purchase a few more souvenirs. I would also like to visit Sine Saloum Delta, but that is contigent on me finding a travel buddy for a couple days my last week here.

Here’s a poll: Should I bring home my djembe (2 ft. tall drum) or a wooden chair? Both are hand-crafted with beautiful designs, heavy & bulky (though the chair less so, because I can fold it up into my suitcase, whereas the drum I’ll have to carry on the plane with me), and serve a purpose (music and seating, respectively). What do my readers think? (Check out pictures below. The drum looks very similar to the one here. The chair would be about half the size pictured here and better carving. Don't mind the random child in the picture.)

OR



May 2, 2008 | 8:05 AM Comments  0 comments

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Gamou

I'm really behind on updating on the events of my study abroad...

Over a month ago I left Dakar for a few days with my host brothers to go to Khelcom, the site of 15 Mouride coranique schools. The occasion was Gamou, the Muslim celebration of the birth of their prophet Mohamed. Louise described the trip best as we sat on the bus waiting to depart:

"Lea, I think this is going to be one of the least fun things we do in Senegal, but one of the most interesting."

That it was -- an extremely interesting and telling Senegalese experience, yet I would hesitate to call it "fun" in any particular way. For instance, we sat on the filled coach bus with dozens of senegalese people for 2 hours before we actually left. It took us around 10 hours to get to Khelcom, arriving around 1am.

The good parts of the trip:
-- Piles of food, including fruit, salad, tuna, beignets (donuts), and real milk in our coffee.
-- Lots of curious children
-- Children chanting in Arabic
-- AMAZING insider view of the Mouride brotherhood, a Koranic school, Islam, and Senegal
-- Visiting the arachide (peanut) fields
-- Practicing my Wolof
-- Visiting the gorgeous Grande Mosque of Touba

The negative parts of the trip:
-- The exaggerated gender boundaries
-- THE ABSOLUTE HOTTEST I'VE EVER BEEN IN MY ENTIRE LIFE
-- Wearing a head scarf, which made it ever hotter
-- Getting treated like stupid foreigners
-- Not quite being up-to-par in speaking Wolof
-- My camera died halfway through the trip
-- Meat, meat, and more MEAT

-- Sitting around the majority of the time not doing anything in particular and not being able to help with any tasks
-- Learning that the Khelcom peanut farming contributes heavily to deforestation, but there isn't much interested parties can do because the Mourides are exempt from many standards.
-- Receiving a lecture from one of the women because I asked where my water bottle went when I woke up Thursday morning and all the bottles were gone. She told me that all is shared, and that individual property doesn't matter. But I was just thirsty.
-- Not seeing my host brothers that often
-- Getting begged by women at Touba for money; them calling us "Mamdara", the mother and most famous female of the Mourides
-- Did I mention that it was F-ING HOT?!?!? I must've said "Dafa tang torop" ("It's very hot" in Wolof) at least 30 times during the trip.

Other occurences that don't quite fit into one of the above two categories:
-- Getting interviewed on camera by a couple of the men, to express our American perspective on the Mourides
-- Discussing polygamy with a couple of the women, including one asking me to set her up with one of my American guy friends
-- Discovering a half dozen people staring at me from a doorway and whispering amongst each other while I was brushing my teeth
-- Visiting the Mouride holy library in Touba

My visit to Khelcom and Touba for Gamou was by far one of the most important experiences of my sojourn in Senegal. The other experiences will have to make up for the unpleasantries.

April 28, 2008 | 8:04 AM Comments  0 comments

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The National Sport

I'm finally getting around to posting about Lutte, the national sport here in Senegal. I attended a big match at the Senghor Stadium weeks ago. It was nuts. Something like a 50 Cent concert and a WWF match and an American football game and a Senegalese club scene all mixed into one.

The main attraction was Balla Beye vs. Gris Bordeaux competing to qualify for the "world" championship, I believe. Several small lutte matches are held beforehand to keep the crowd entertained, as well as a drumming troupe, balloons, and a really terrible MC.

Lutte is basically like American wrestling except that there's only one round and the fighters wear outfits like sumo wrestlers (man diapers, you could call them). You lose if your back or all four limbs touch the ground.


At this big match, the lutteurs come out and run around the stadium to get the crowd pumped up. And man, oh man, were they pumped up. The guy next to me was losing his mind, I believe. He actually hit my head at one point while flailing his arms around. I moved for my safety, obviously. The guys in front of us were very amusing, dancing and going only slightly crazy with excitement.


There's about 2 hours of pre-game before the actual match, which lasted approximately 15 seconds. Balla Beye won the match. Immediately, the crowd started storming the field. I've never seen anything like it for 15 seconds of fighting.

The match gave me a great view of Senegal's national sport. I'll be happy to steer clear of any others like it, however.

April 21, 2008 | 8:04 AM Comments  0 comments

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